Knowing that it was going to be far less comfortable than hanging out in the desert, Jen and I decided to head north and get in some ice climbing while the season was in full swing. So, we cruised through SLC to drop off the bikes and pick up the ice gear, and headed to Bozeman, Montana.
Hyalite seemed like a good place to get in a bit of mileage before going farther North into Canada, but our timing was kinda shit. After a couple days on some of the classics, a cold front hit the entire western part of the continent and dropped the daytime temps to -23F where we were. That was enough to make the climbing no fun and drive us out of the van and force us to get a hotel room for the first time in nine months. We festered for a few days catching up on lots of Archer, and eventually we moved back into the van and back into the canyon (farther up the road this time, as the police had already kicked us out of the lower lot).
Temps climbed into the teens for our last days there. And I got to finish off the trip by leading the Scepter, which was in especially interesting three-dimensional shape. It was great to close off the Montana leg with a difficult lead and confirm that I still remember how to climb steep ice after all these months on the rock. Now, off to Canada.
We found this sign a mile into the approach, which was also down a closed road. Alpha (WI4) was hollow at the bottom and thin at the top. Jen on Alpha.Into the thin stuff near the top. I’m a sucker for moss. Thin Chance (WI4)Jen exiting the steep section. Mummy II on the right, and the Scepter on the left, which we did later in the week. Jen approaching the Elevator ShaftElevator Shaft (WI4) was in super easy shape. Jen following before the snow started. Jen on her second lap in full-on conditions. One pitch worth of snow on the screws.Hiking out for the day. The van needs more hooks. Jen following the steepest line I could piece together on Genesis.The Sprite exploded during the -23F night, but the Coke did not. We were supposed to go to Canada about now, but the weather just said “Stay Away.”We basically spent the next few days hiding out in a hotel room and occasionally trying to keep the van from freezing solid. Murphy in the snow after temps went into positive numbers again. He loves the snow. Murphy looking up at a treed squirrel.Unknown climber on The Scepter (WI5) with another on Mummy II to the right. Jen following The Scepter (WI5)Working around the giant mushrooms. The upper vertical section.Jen was all smiles after following her first WI5 of the season.
